Why potting matters
How a plant is potted determines how water and oxygen reach its roots — and so determines, downstream, almost every problem you will or won't encounter. Plants want to alternate between absorbing water and absorbing air. The wrong pot, or the wrong soil, traps moisture and quietly breaks that cycle.
The right setup: nursery pot in a decorative pot
- Keep the plant in a nursery pot — only slightly larger than the root ball, with drainage holes.
- Place that nursery pot inside your decorative pot.
Which soil to use
Use a specialised indoor potting mix — perlite, bark, peat, and other aggregates. These create air pockets that keep oxygen at the roots and hold the soil structure light over time.
Avoid standard outdoor garden soil. Its clay and silt particles compact quickly, trapping moisture and squeezing out air — the roots suffocate.
When to repot (and when not to)
Don't repot immediately after bringing a plant home — it's already adjusting to a new environment. There are two main scenarios when a plant genuinely needs repotting:
Scenario 1 — it has outgrown its pot
The most common reason to repot. The plant has been doing well and growing steadily for 1–2 years — then it starts to struggle even though your care routine hasn't changed: same watering, same spot, same light. In that case it may simply have outgrown its pot and become root-bound: as the roots fill the container, there's less and less room for soil, and so for water retention.
- Water doesn't absorb properly — it sits on the surface or runs straight out of the bottom, because the pot is so crowded with roots that the remaining compacted soil can't hold it
- Older leaves turning yellow and falling — the plant sheds its oldest, lowest leaves to save energy for new growth. Unlike a sick plant that yellows all over, a root-bound plant typically drops only the lowest leaves while the top keeps looking healthy
How to confirm it's root-bound: gently slide the plant out of its nursery pot. It's root-bound if you see any of these three:
Scenario 2 — emergency repotting, because the plant is struggling
Unlike the first scenario, this isn't about growth — it's about intervention, when the soil or roots are no longer healthy and the plant needs fresh soil. The three most common reasons:
- Root rot — soil that stayed wet too long lets anaerobic bacteria decompose the roots. Look for a rotten-egg smell from the soil, black mushy roots, and soft, blackening stems or leaves
- Mineral build-up — minerals from your water and leftover fertilizer salts accumulate over time. You'll see a crusty white or yellowish layer on the soil surface or around the inner rim of the pot
- Depleted or hydrophobic soil — old soil eventually loses its structure. It can compact so much that it repels water ("hydrophobic"), or simply go "spent", with all the original nutrients and aeration gone. Water either sits on the surface or flows straight out
How to repot, step by step
Repotting looks slightly different depending on why you're doing it — follow the walkthrough that matches your plant.
Your plant has outgrown its pot
Step 1 · Prepare
Gather your supplies on a clear, soil-safe surface:
- A new nursery pot only slightly larger (3–5cm wider) than the current one
- Well-draining indoor potting soil
- A chopstick
- Sterilised scissors (wipe with rubbing alcohol)
- A watering can
Step 2 · Inspect and clean
Slide the plant out by gently squeezing the sides of the pot — never pull on the stem. Inspect the roots closely for rot (black, soft or mushy patches) and trim any away with the clean scissors; healthy roots are firm and light in colour.
Step 3 · Repot
- Loosen the root ball — if the roots grew in a tight circle, loosen them with your fingers and guide some outward, so they grow into the fresh soil instead of continuing to spiral
- Create a base — add fresh soil to the bottom of the new pot, then sit the plant in to check the height: the top of the root ball should rest slightly below the rim. Adjust the base until it does
- Fill the gaps — break away the old top layer of soil and add fresh soil around the sides. Lightly tap or shake the pot as you go to settle it, and poke a chopstick down along the sides to collapse hidden air pockets
Step 4 · Water
Water thoroughly until it flows freely from the drainage holes, and let the pot drain fully before it goes back in the decorative pot.
Emergency repotting for a struggling plant
Step 1 · Prepare
Same supplies, with one extra rule for hygiene:
- A nursery pot the same size as the current one — or smaller, if the plant was in an oversized pot
- Well-draining indoor potting soil
- A chopstick, sterilised scissors, a watering can
- Access to a sink or basin
Step 2 · Deep clean
Slide the plant out and gently shake off as much of the old, contaminated soil as possible — if it smells bad or shows mineral build-up, rinse the roots under room-temperature water until clean. Then use the sterilised scissors to cut away every black, mushy or slimy root; only firm, tan-white roots should remain. Any rot left behind will spread into the new soil. If you're reusing the old pot, wash and disinfect it thoroughly to kill whatever caused the rot.
Step 3 · Repot
- Create a base — add fresh soil to the bottom. Because you've trimmed roots back, you'll likely need more soil at the base than usual to keep the plant at the right height
- Fill the gaps — centre the plant, add fresh soil, tap or shake to settle, and run the chopstick down the sides to collapse air pockets
Step 4 · Water
Water thoroughly until it flows freely from the drainage holes, and let it drain fully before returning it to the decorative pot.
A self-watering setup for decorative pots
We don't recommend potting directly into a decorative pot — most lack drainage holes and aren't sized to the root ball. But if you want the plant sitting directly in a favourite pot, you can build a self-watering reservoir inside it that keeps the root-rot risk down:
- Build a base — a layer of hydro-stones (LECA) at the bottom. This is the reservoir: excess water sits here without touching the roots.
- Add a wick — a microfibre string or dedicated plant wick running from the bottom of the reservoir up into the soil.
- Add indoor soil — your indoor mix goes in above the stones. As the soil dries, the wick pulls moisture from the reservoir back up into it.
Quick questions
Should I repot a plant right after buying it?
No — it's already adjusting to new light and air. Leave it in its nursery pot inside your decorative pot. Only repot when it has clearly outgrown the pot, ideally between October and May, when plants here are actively growing.
Can I plant directly into a pot without drainage holes?
We don't recommend it. Water pools at the bottom, roots drown, and salts build up. Keep the nursery pot inside the decorative pot instead — you get the look and the drainage.
How often do houseplants need repotting?
Roughly every 1–2 years for most, and only one pot size up at a time. The signs it's time: water running straight through, roots out of the drainage holes, or a plant struggling despite an unchanged routine.
What's the best soil for indoor plants?
A dedicated indoor mix with perlite and bark — it keeps air at the roots. Avoid outdoor garden soil, which compacts in pots and suffocates them.